Viva l'Italia: Random Notes

As you might expect, we’ve had Italy reservations booked, for flight and hotel, for six months. However, when we arrived by airport cab at the Hotel Columbo in Genoa (above), Libero Sterlocchi, our host, was genuinely happy to see me, but appeared concerned and wondered if we had reservations.

“Of course,” I assured him, presenting the documentation. He smiled broadly.

After checking in and literally dropping our bags, we adjourned to one of my frequent watering holes from past trips, The Café Barbarossa. Cocktails were in order first, and after that, we adjourned to Trattoria Alle 2 Torri for dinner.

The eatery sits adjacent to the two towers of the Porta Soprana (above), perhaps the best-known gate in the ancient city walls built in the 12th century.

Our first night in the Hotel Columbo, we had a room with only a fan. That day, it was 90 degrees Fahrenheit with 80 percent humidity. In other words, it was hot and sticky.

But for the remainder of our stay, he moved us to a berth with air conditioning, a new feature at the hotel since our trip in 2013.

So we had both cooling, and a fridge, in our room, a welcome relief.

Recovering from our flight after 24 hours or so, we settled on the boat ride to the old Benedictine monastery at San Fruttuoso (left) and the exclusive resort town of Portofino, a little cove straight out of Lifestyles of the Rich and Famous.

Everything is expensive in Portofino, but what a delightful little tourist trap and movie star magnet it is. The ubiquitous paparazzi worked in packs.

In between trips to both lengths of the Italian Riviera, we explored Genoa.

The piers of the Porto Antico were lined with trattoras and shops, beckoning us with fine food and cool threads, not to mention fine leather Italian handbags and shoes. Those Italians love their shoes. 

And as far as the ristorantes on the piers? Very classy, indeed. Plus, they had great views of the harbor, as Gina will attest.

Next it was a trip to the French border by train. Unfortunately, the train ride from Genova Brignole station took almost four hours (the guidebook lists the trip as 2-3½) hours. Last time it was only two hours.

This time, it took 3½ hours, allowing little more than an hour in Ventimiglia. Still, our seats provided outstanding views of the Riviera di Potente along with the unique flora (left) and fauna along the way.

The highlight? Reconnecting with family in the foothills near Genoa. Tip of the capello to: the Sterlocchis, our hosts; Andrea, our cab driver, navigator, interpreter and videographer extraordinaire; and the Sanguinetis, our hosts in Isolona.

Even my old buddy, Nico greeted me with a warm handshake as we passed the Cafe Barbarossa on our last day in town. Molto bene!