Grand Torino

After nearly a fortnight in Genoa, it was off to Turin for part two of our Italian holiday. Torino features a colorful past, and despite periodic destruction by the likes of Hannibal, Napoleon and the Royal Air Force, the city features elegant piazzas (above), top-flight museums and historic cafes in colonnaded walkways.

Embarking from Genoa's main station, the train wove through several tunnels in the Ligurian hill country before bursting from the dark into the sunny wine country of Asti and Alessandro. Rich agricultural valleys provide a considerable bounty, including Barolo wines of the Piedmont region, some of the best "vino" in the world.

Torino, a settlement founded by early Celts or Ligurians, became the Roman colony of Augusta Taurinorium. Later, the House of Savoy abandoned its capital in Chambery (now in France) to establish new headquarters in Torino. With “The Resurgence” (Italian unification) in 1861, the city became the new nation’s first capital.

Despite quickly losing its capital status to Florence in 1863, Torino became a hub for industry in the early 20th century, which -- unfortunately for the residents of the city -- made it a strategic target for Royal Air Force bombing missions during WWII. The city was heavily damaged, but was rebuilt quickly after the war.

Torino, Italy's fourth largest city, is famous for a number of reasons; slow food supermarkets, solid chocolate, martinis, tic tacs and, of course, the city hosted the 2006 Winter Olympics. Their much beloved soccer team, Juventus F.C., Italy’s most successful football club, ranks eighth in the world for international titles.

Museums are among the best in Europe. We visited both the Museo Egizio, which focuses on archaeology and anthropology and features some of Europe’s most important ancient Egyptian treasures, and the Museo Nazionale Del Cinema located in the Mole Antonelli, originally built as a synagogue and the city’s primary landmark (below).

Parks are located everywhere, but our favorite was the Parco del Valentino situated along the Po River (below), a short walk from our hotel. A popular spot for runners, the park features a medieval village and botanical gardens. Across the river from the Parco del Valentino is the Monte dei Cappuccini, another city landmark.

And, of course, Torino is home to the Shroud of Turin, a length of linen with the image of a man believed by many to be the burial shroud of Jesus of Nazareth. The shroud is housed in the royal chapel of the Cathedral of St. John the Baptist. The image features a man with a beard, mustache and shoulder-length hair.  

Was impressed with the elaborate piazzas, particularly the Piazza Castello and Piazza San Carlo (how appropriate), and the vibrant, busy avenues of Via Roma and Via Po. Classic statues align with chic clothing and shoe shops, and boulevards are sprinkled with cafes with outdoor seating and gelato shops at every turn.

Arriving in Torino, I lugged my “mondo” REI suitcase and stuffed North Face backpack through the gauntlet of Italianos trying to get from “A” to “B.” Two poliziotti (policemen), sent me off in the wrong direction. Eventually, I found my temporary home: The Hotel Roma (below). In hindsight, it would be an omen.